Khammouane
Khammouane is a province located in central Laos. It is known for its diverse landscapes, which range from lush forests and mountains to rivers and extensive cave systems.
The limestone karst landscape of Khammouane Province had contributed to the formation of caves over thousands of years. Many of them feature unique rock formations, underground rivers, and impressive stalactites and stalagmites.
From Vientiane to Khammouane
The drive from Vientiane to my accommodation in Khammouane was about 4 hours. Do take note of the sun set time (the sun set at about 1730 hours when I was there in December) as the route consisted of winding mountain roads without street lamps. If you are not familiar driving in darkness (except with your vehicle's headlights), it is recommended that you plan to arrive at your accommodation before the sun sets.
Arriving at Khammouane
I arrived at my accommodation long after the sun had gone to bed. Upon arrival, I did a quick check-in and the guesthouse's owner was kind enough to prepare a simple dinner as I was famished from my last meal 7 hours ago.
In and Around Khammouane
Popular places to visit include:
- Tad Nam Sanam (Nam Sanam Waterfall)
- Tham Kong Lo (Kong Lor Cave)
- Tham Nang Aen (Nang Aen Cave)
- Tham Xe Bang Fai (Xe Bang Fai Cave)
Take Note
Do bring along a powerful torchlight/headlight if you want to look around in the caves which are totally dark, as the ones which are provided by the boatman may not be bright enough (at Tham Kong Lo) or not provided (at Tham Xe Bang Fai). As your legs may get wet when you visit the waterfall or caves, I would recommended to wear strap sandals.
Tad Nam Sanam (Nam Sanam Waterfall)
Tad Nam Sanam (20,000 LAK) is open from 0800 to 1600 hours.
For safety reasons, I would recommended to start the trek no later than 1400 hours (if you trek at above average speed) or earlier (if you would like to trek at a leisurely pace), to have sufficient time to trek to the waterfall and back before sunset.
A 3 km trek from the entrance through the lush jungle with gigantic trees and wildlife would bring you to a pair of waterfalls running down 5 steps on the Phou Phaman mountain. Do be careful as some parts of the trail may be difficult, steep and slippery.
Look out for signs on the tree trunks for directions to the waterfall.
There are pros and cons when visiting the waterfall during the wet and dry seasons. It is at its most spectacular during the rainy season (May to October) when there is plenty of water. During the dry season, the water flow is much lesser and you may not be able to experience the full beauty of the waterfall.
Tham Kong Lo (Kong Lor Cave)
Tham Kong Lo (entrance fee and boat ride 130,000 LAK, parking 10,000 LAK) is a massive limestone cave that stretches 7 kilometres and 100 metres in height. Visitors can take a boat ride through the cave to Natane Village at the other end, marvelling its impressive stalactites and stalagmites along the way.
After passing the welcome arch indicating that you have arrived, walk all the way to the end where the embarkation and disembarkation point is. You can also read the information boards along the way which mentions about Konglor-Natane site, a 3-D map between Konglor and Natane, how were the Khammouane mountains formed, how were concretions formed, how was the cave discovered, etc.
You can expect the boatman to issue a lifejacket and headlamp to you.
After that, the boatman would lead you for a short walk from the the embarkation and disembarkation point across a small river on a bamboo bridge with the mountains in the background, along a rocky path to the entrance of the cave where you would board a boat for your tour.
The cave is totally dark inside, thus the headlamp.
You would alight at some point to take a walk through the passage to admire some amazingly-formed stalactites and stalagmites before reboarding the boat.
As the boat glides through the cave, just enjoy the darkness, coolness of the cave and the soft splashing of water together with the motor of the boat as there is nothing much that you can do, not even taking photos. If you bring your own torchlight/headlight and think it is bright enough, you can try it in the cave.
Keang Houng Rapid is at the end of the cave just before the exit where you would have to alight from the boat for the boatman to bring the boat up the rocks before reboarding to continue on your journey.
The ride through the cave was about 45 minutes.
After a short while, you would arrive at Natane Village. Remember to synchronise your return time with the boatman. An hour should be more than enough to visit the handicraft centre to see the villagers weaving their hand-made products, walk around the area and snap some photos.
The return route is pretty much by the same way, I think. Remember that it was pitch dark in the cave?
Upon arrival at the exit of the cave, hand over the life jacket and headlamp to the boatman and you can take your time to stroll back, while snapping more photos of the scenery along the way, to the embarkation and disembarkation point.
Tham Nang Ene (Nang Ene Cave)/Tham Nang Aen (Nang Aen Cave)
You do not have to take a boat to visit Tham Nang Ene (30,000 KIP).
There are 2 ways to explore different parts of the cave, by foot and by boat.
You can walk around the cave, up and down the flights of cement staircases exploring the different chambers and limestone formations which are lit by colourful lights. Do be careful as you admire the cave as some of the ceilings are quite low at some areas.
Look around the cave as you go up and down the stairs to appreciate the views of the cave from various viewpoints.
There is a small stream below which runs where small boats take visitors on a boat trip through the other parts of the cave but as I arrived quite late, the boats were no longer operating.
Tham Xe Bang Fai (Xe Bang Fai Cave)
On the way to and back from Tham Xe Bang Fai (125,000 LAK), there were various unforseen challenges, some not for the faint-hearted.
- There were herds of cattle blocking the road, some lying down and enjoying their bask in the sun.
2. There was a bridge with a rocky surface. The drive through it was buuuummmmpy.
3. There was a river crossing (30,000 LAK) which used a mobile platform built on 3 boats as the construction of the bridge nearby seemed to have stopped. I was not sure if the platform could support the vehicle's weight but after confirming with a local who told me that that was their way of getting across, I crossed my fingers, took the risk and went for it.
4. There was another river crossing where I had to drive across, fortunately, through shallow water.
Tham Xe Bang Fai (Xe Bang Fai Cave) (125,000 LAK) is one of the largest river caves in the world and known for its impressive size, stunning stalactite and stalagmite formations, and chambers that stretch for several kilometers.
Visiting the cave was memorable as I did it on Christmas Day. 🎄
After passing the welcome arch, head to the ticket office.
After paying for your entrance fee, the boatman would take you to the entrance of the cave where he would go and fetch a boat. After putting on your life vest, the journey into the cave begins.
The boat would drop you off after about 10 minutes and the boatman would lead you to explore the cave on foot and admire the limestone formations, stalactites and stalagmites.
You would reach the end of the walking journey where you would see the exit of the cave from where you are standing.
After tracing back where the boat dropped you, the boatman would take you back from where you came from.
After disemarking from the boat, you will have your own time to snap as many selfies as you wish before you head out.
Food and Beverage
As Khammouane was still undeveloped for the tourist industry, food and beverage could be available from your guesthouse or shops in the small towns.
I had my dinner at the guesthouse upon arrival and breakfast the next morning as well. There was an eating place just outside the welcome arch at Tham Kong Lo which sold rice with dishes and pasta. There are 'restaurants' scattered around as well. At the town outside Tham Xe Bang Fai, there was a shop that sold noodles.
Departing Khammouane
After exploring caves and waterfall for 2 days, it was time to return back to Vientiane. It was another about 4.5 hours drive back to return the vehicle and continue with my next leg of adventure.
